What to see in Ogliastra in a week

Ogliastra is bigger than it looks on the map, and the roads are narrow and winding: forty-five kilometres here can mean an hour and a quarter. This itinerary is built around the real timings.

Day 1 — Bari Sardo and around

Arrival, shopping, beach. In the evening, a walk through the old town and dinner in town. If it’s a Tuesday, the morning market is worth the early alarm.

Day 2 — The southern beaches

Marina di Gairo, Coccorrocci and the coast towards Tertenia. A day of swimming, with a packed lunch.

Day 3 — The Trenino Verde

The Arbatax–Gairo stretch is one of the finest scenic railways in Europe: four hours through the mountains, with no road running alongside. It only runs in summer and on selected dates — book at least a week ahead.

Day 4 — Baunei and the Golgo

Up to the Golgo plateau, with its karst chasm and free-roaming goats. The trails to the coves start from here. The road is narrow but paved.

Day 5 — Cala Goloritzé

Reachable only on foot or by boat. On foot it’s an hour and twenty down and around two hours back up, with a rocky section: closed shoes essential, plenty of water. Access is capped and must be booked online. Boats leave from Santa Maria Navarrese or from Arbatax, which is the right call with children or in strong heat.

Day 6 — Inland: nuraghi and wineries

The Serbissi nuraghe above Osini, the limestone tacchi of Ulassai and the wineries of Jerzu. A mountain day, ten degrees cooler than the coast.

Day 7 — Rest

Town beach, no car. You’ll need it.

What you can skip

If you’re short on days, skip the minor nuraghi and keep Goloritzé: it’s the one thing you won’t find anywhere else.